My God Downtown Jacksonville is lovely on Autumn Nights.

[stephendare]

I was at the 11 east starbucks, as is my habit, on Saturday Night.

Deciding what to do for the rest of the evening, I telephoned my friend Josh Taylor who resides in the Metropolitan Lofts at the Northwest Corner of the old business district.

I have to admit, that despite using the storage unit at the next door UHAUL, I have had precious little reason to be on that side of downtown past sunset. (with the occasional exception of something happening at the Ritz.)

Anyways, I determined to walk from 11 east to the Metropolitan.

The air is simply perfect, a little brisk, cool enough to wear pants not cold enough to need a coat.

I walked down Adams Street, cut over Laura and walked through Hemming Park along Monroe.

It was actually quite beautiful.  Hemming Park is gorgeously lit, La Cena and Chamblin's Book Mine look about as inviting as any idealized 40s era downtown shops might look, and the Library was having some after hours event and somewhere down on Monroe, there was the echoing wonderful nonsense of the BeeGee's being played.

Hemming Park was just lovely.  The ban on the scary people after 'closing' seems to have worked and is apparently being as selectively enforced as everyone (proponents and opponents alike) anticipated---meaning that instead of the expected 28days later crowd, the park was hosting a few couples walking in the strangely golden lights and kissing or holding hands or just enjoying the evening by the fountain.

I wished I had a photo, it was that idealized.   It looked like the downtown scene from "A Christmas Story"

Anyways, I passed through the Park and made my way over to the semi abandoned (but unexpectedly empty) streets around the Ambassador Hotel.

I guess I was expecting the cheap knockoff of a Loft Project that seems to be associated with Jacksonville... I was very pleasantly surprised.

One major thing to not.

I am certainly no stranger to downtown.  I have been in and around it since the early 80s consistently.

During the absolute nadir of downtown's worst days, there was an omnipresent aroma of filth, urine, dead beer and human crap that pervaded that part of the city.  It wasnt overpowering, but it was there subtly in the background---its amazing how subtly smells color your impressions of a place.

That is all gone now.  There is still the smell of old buildings and asphalt.  But you can finally smell the brackish water of the River again, and there is an underpinning of fresh green things growing all around the place that were simply not there earlier than five years ago.

As you get closer to the Metropolitan Front door, there is hip music playing and you can actually smell cologne and good expensive soap.  Someone had clearly been barbequeing and the lingering taste of hickory and ribs was in the background.

Anyways, I was expecting the 11east method of entry.  No doorman, no office.  You have to call whoever you are visiting and they buzz you in.

The Metropolitan is quite different.

There is a call box, but it has instructions so easy to follow that even an idiot (myself for instance) can use it.

But as I was reading the directions, a guy caught my eye from inside:  The 20something concierge for the building.

Not dressed in the standard ridiculous security guard costume, looking dull and potentially bloody minded.

Just a regular, well dressed friendly looking guy who looked amused and clearly enjoying the music selection.

He buzzed me in the door, and waited while I phoned Josh to figure out what floor he was on.

The lobby suddenly became a nexus point of residents, as by chance they arrived from seperate directions (the patio, a couple arriving from the parking garage, a guy with a recalcitrant and expensive looking dog in the elevator, a young woman arriving via another elevator car.

They were all cute, in their twenties and clearly the 'fun' type of people.

A burst of energy and chitchat followed, more trails of cologne and perfume.  Funny remarks.

The lobby is retro modern and cool, polished metal cutouts with the logo (a huge M) behind the desk.

Very well selected art, and kind of thrillingly retrokitsch wood accents.

I used to be very flattered when people would come to boomtown and tell me with (somewhat embarrassing to me) gratitude that they felt like they were finally in a city whilst there.  Now I know what they meant, and the little rush and weird sense of relief and relaxation that comes with the sensation.

For the first time in a while, I felt like I was in a City. 

I went up to Josh's Apartment and we eventually left to find dinner and amusements, but I finally had the A Ha Moment in Downtown.

We have brought it so far.  And its hard to see the progress sometimes, especially when there is so much yet to do.

But its getting there, I think.

[Driven1]

everywhere is lovely in the fall.  spring as well.  they are the moderate seasons, beloved by many.  It is just an unfortunate geographic truth that Jax's geography doesn't allow it to enjoy either season very long! 

[thelakelander]

Yes, we've come a long way in the past couple of years, compared to where downtown bottomed out.

Results of the Boom: Completed or Under Construction
http://www.metrojacksonville.com/content/view/902/122/

[BridgeTroll]

The Wife and I were also downtown Saturday afternoon.  Beautiful day... Walked the riverwalk from end to end and wandered through the landing... Great day and location for a walk.

[Ocklawaha]

Agree Stephen. Moreover our City seems somewhat unique in Florida. Standing in Miami's skyscraper district or Orlando, one gets the same feeling. Nobody "is here", though there are millions of them, they rush in and rush out in sifts. Orlando, what there is of it downtown, is more like the county HQ for a dozen small companies and a collection of clubs that are just an extension of International Drive for the people from Seminole County. Only South Beach has that Jacksonville Aire.

Something solid, fixed, cosmopolitan, refined. A well tuned machine where you find the answers to your questions. Jacksonville has a sense of "place" of being somewhere special. It's found in polished brass doors, marble, etched glass and whistles. That certain smell one got when opening the door to the downtown Furchgotts store, the smell of hot peanuts and cashews at the old Sears, the grill at Walgreens, and the ever present Maxwell House scent from heaven in Colombia.

It's amazing how eye opening such a walk is, I too have had that experience recently. For me it's a page from the classic "It's a Wonderful Life". Even potato chip trucks have bells...we all know what that means.

OCKLAWAHA

[thelakelander]

I have to disagree, regarding Florida's other cities.

I think all of our major Florida downtowns are unique in their own right. 

Miami

Historic architecture and a dense collection of local retailers combine to give Miami's streets vibrant feel.

Miami has a comsopolitan flair mixed with a strong latin cultural vibe that you can't find anywhere else in the US.  I found vibrant collection of the local retail scene along Flagler Street exciting.  I can only imagine what it may have felt to walk down Forsyth or Main, when they were budding with the same amount of urban retail.

Orlando

Central Blvd, Downtown Orlando

We like to tie Downtown Orlando to neon lights and Disney, but when you seriously look at it, that city has made significant strides downtown.  But that community has created their own vibrant urban area with a strong sense of place.  Its centered around Central Blvd. and Lake Eola Park, between the Downtown core and Thornton Park.


Tampa

Ybor City is proof of the benefit of preserving urban historic building fabric, Tampa

Tampa, its downtown is a great example of do's and don'ts.  If you want to see how urban pedestrian malls and busways turn out in Sunbelt downtowns, visit Tampa.  They both have been implemented and failed miserably.  Yet, if you want to see the success of historic preservation or if streetcars spur TODs, Tampa is your place as well.  Ybor City, Hyde Park, the Channel District and the TECO Streetcar are major positives in that community.  You also can't overlook the unique architecture from the cigar industry days and the benefit of having a urban university in the core.


Jacksonville

Jacksonville's bridges provide an urban backdrop that can't be duplicated by any other Southeastern city. Downtown

Jacksonville, we have a significant river, a downtown setting featuring hills, turn of the century highrises, prairie and modern styled architecture, along with a collection of unique steel truss bridges.  The scenery here can't be found in any other major Southeastern US city.  Its something we should really rally around.

[Driven1]

do we even light the modis bldg anymore?

[comncense]

Nice vivid description of your stroll thru downtown. I know this is totally off-base but, I didn't know Metropolitan Lofts had a parking garage. I thought they had an empty lot that they park in. That was one of the reasons I never really thought of them as a living option.

[fsujax]

do we even light the modis bldg anymore?

Yes, but the teal is gone this year. Guess, it was too expensive to put teal colored panels over the lights.

[comncense]

Cool I may check it out. I always loved how the interior of the building looked.

[Ocklawaha]

I have to disagree, regarding Florida's other cities.

I think all of our major Florida downtowns are unique in their own right.

They're unique - in their own right, i'll give you that. I think the point of Stephens post, and mine, is that downtown Jacksonville is an experience all it's own. I was saying no other city comes close for me. Perhaps it goes back to watching the Champion, The Ponce De Leon, or South Wind flash past me, but if it does, then the ghosts are alive and well. Call it the center of the Florida Railroad universe. Maybe it's older ghosts, Miami - Orlando - Tampa - St Pete we're not even dreamed of when Jacksonville was already humming with activity. The others have old places too, but it's not the same. Do their ghosts wear French or Spanish or Confederate uniforms? Call it almost "old world" old. For me - that's some unique air. This place moves me like no other.

OCKLAWAHA

[David]

It looks like it's building a decent wait list too. Back when they first opened I almost moved in there shortly after I left 11E, but decided on getting more space for my money in Riverside. The floor plans are so open though, love the explosed a/c ducts, the ny style etc. That area would be an excelent part of downtown to develop it's own neighborhood feel if it can get some of the basic neighborhood componets going nearby.

[TheProfessor]

If someone can get all those historic buildings redeveloped as planned and get some affordable spaces downtown then I think it will grow in sense of community.  The metropolitan lofts look a bit pricey, but they are about on target with a luxury apartments in Jacksonville.  The problem is most people wanting to live in luxury do not think of downtown as their first option.  Time will tell. =)

[Basstacular]

Loved the post Stephen.  I joined this site and stay connected for posts as such.  I know many DT advocates are discouraged by the constant road blocks that seem to haunt our DT, but a post w/ such a vivid portrait of DT is really refreshing.  As someone who was born and raised at the beach and currently resides there, I cannot wait to take occupancy in my future residence DT.  I love our DT and being a 26 year old I am ecstatic that I have the opportunity to contribute and observe our DT's true potential come to fruition one day.  Also, on a side note I hope to offer some new and exciting news about Churchwell Lofts in the coming days as well.  For those who have not been inside this development, feel free to contact me to find out how to get into to look at them.  Truly phenomenal in my opinion.

[alta]

The Churchwell Lofts are a gem in downtown.  Are there any prospects for the retail space on Bay Street?