How to work on a scary house.

Started by sheclown, January 19, 2013, 10:59:20 AM

camarocane

Quote from: sheclown on March 12, 2015, 06:39:23 PM
Quote from: camarocane on March 12, 2015, 02:04:18 PM
I recently purchased a home in Avondale and am having issues with window condensation forming on the inside and causing mold growth on the mullions. from what I understand these old windows had weep hopes at one point, but many have since been painted over. Anyone have a permanent fix for this? Or should I just give the windows a good cleaning every month?

Do all of the windows on the same side of the house have this problem?  Or is it only this one.

If it is only one, then perhaps there is a leak above the crown where flashing should be and water is getting in there.

Is this happening in the summer?  With the AC on?

Any HVAC guys out there -- with experience in older homes -- care to jump in on this?

All windows have this problem, only when I'm running the heat though... Moved here is September. Now that the temperature is warmer it's not as bad, I'm assuming it's just the temp differential in the winter wit the warm air inside, condensing on the windows. It's something I may just have to live with, pain in the butt though.

PeeJayEss

I am looking to renovate the bathroom in my 1925 Bungalow in Riverside, which has already had a very bad renovation by the previous owner (strange layout, window replacement, etc). Anyway, they removed the plaster walls in favor of drywall, and they may have insulated as well (I will find out once I open it up). Should I remove the insulation? Also, if I have no insulation, and there is no moisture barrier on the outside of the house (wood siding), do I skip any kind of vapor barrier? Do I just go with properly sealed cement board around the shower and other wet areas that I am going to tile? Is plaster a reasonable option in the shower area?

sheclown

#47
This is what the National Park Service says about insulating old homes:

Quote
Install Insulation

Natural air movement within a building, temperature differential between the heated and unheated spaces, and accessibility make the attic the most cost-effective location for insulation. However, insulating basements or crawlspaces can also have value in improving both comfort and efficiency. Therefore, these two locations are often the places to begin. Attics and basements are often moist or humid environments, and these conditions can greatly compromise the insulating factor of any material. Thus, good ventilation and moisture control are necessary to maintain a thermal barrier in these spaces. The Department of Energy provides detailed information about the various factors to consider when installing insulation in attics and crawl spaces.

Ducts and pipes can also be sources of conductive heat loss. Wrapping insulation around heating and cooling ducts and hot water pipes can stop heat loss and enhance the efficiency of these systems. Use insulation that is intended for this purpose and install it according to manufacturer's recommendations for the best results.

In general, adding insulation to the walls of historic buildings is not a cost-effective or sensitive treatment. Adding blown-in insulation to historic wall assemblies may trap moisture within the wall and lead to accelerated and often hidden deterioration of the structure. Proper installation of wall insulation involves the removal of historic finishes that can be damaged in the process. If walls are so deteriorated that complete replacement is required, insulation can be properly installed with a vapor barrier as the wall is repaired. It is best to limit insulation to attics and basements where it can be installed with minimal damage to the historic building.

When you open up the walls, you will be able to see if the insulation is holding any moisture.  That is the big problem with insulating the old home.  If it is you should certainly remove the insulation and not replace it. 

I don't think plaster is practical from an economic stand-point once the old has already been removed.  If you want the plaster walls, prepare to pay about 4 times as much as drywall would cost. 

Well sealed cement board is what we use for shower areas. 

Regarding Vapor Barriers:
Quote
Vapor Barriers Are a Good Thing, Right?

Vapor barriers are supposed to stop vapor diffusion through roofs, walls, and floors. But they can also can trap moisture, causing rot and mold.

- See more at:

http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/qa-spotlight/vapor-barriers-are-good-thing-right

I think the jury is still out about vapor barriers. 


sheclown

Amanda Searle's blog gives some advice about financing the work on a scary house:

05/26/2015 By amandasearle

QuoteFinancing a Home in Need of Renovation

Finding the perfect home isn't always easy. Sometimes, the home you prefer has the character of a historic home, but needs renovations.

You might have the perfect home in mind, but you know it has to be renovated before you can settle in with your family. If this sounds like your situation, it's important to find the right financing. Here are a few common financing options for homes needing renovations.

read more:

http://intownjacksonvillerealestate.com/wordpress1/financing-a-home-that-needs-renovation-work/