Jon Insetta Likes His Bacon (still Oinking)

[Non-RedNeck Westsider]

Jacksonville restaurateur partners with Black Hog Farm to keep food local
By Rebecca Pollock jacksonville.com Copyright 2012 The Florida Times-Union. All rights reserved. This material may not be published, broadcast, rewritten or redistributed. 
March 8, 2012 - 12:20am

Growing up in the suburbs of Jacksonville, restaurateur Jonathan Insetta had quite a few pets, mainly dogs. He also had about 30 chickens, four turkeys and a donkey.

Insetta hated his farm-like chores; none of his friends were given the unusual task of collecting eggs from suburbanite chickens. But Insetta did learn to appreciate the fresh chicken and eggs he was fed growing up and recognizes the influence that his childhood has had on his farming aspirations.

Insetta, 33, is now the owner of Black Sheep Restaurant Group and the French-American restaurant, Orsay. Sometime this summer, Insetta will open his newest restaurant, Black Sheep, in Five Points.

Black Sheep will serve American regional cuisine and, within the first year of opening, Insetta hopes to reach a lofty goal of filling 60 percent of his menu with food that is grown locally.

“Everything from scratch, everything in-house, and try to be as local as possible,” Insetta said.

To make this possible, Insetta has partnered with 25-year-old Luke Watkins, the president of Black Hog Farm in East Palatka.

Slideshow: A behind-the-scenes look at life on Black Hog Farm

What started as a small farm for laying hens, 15-acre Black Hog Farm has grown significantly since partnering with Insetta. Today, the farm has over 200 hogs and a countless number of chickens. With increasing demand for Black Hog’s farm-fresh products from Insetta and other local restaurants and residents, it’s time to expand.

Last November, Insetta and Watkins purchased 126 acres in Bostwick for $140,000 at a public auction, and they have another 40-acre plot in East Palatka under contract.

There will be a lot of changes in the next couple of months but, for the time being, no work is being done on the new farm. Watkins said they are waiting to obtain the other 40 acres to decide where to move everything, but plan to have the farm up and running within the year.

“We’re at the beginning steps,” Insetta said. “We’re trying to grow naturally, not too quickly, and really focus on the products at hand.”

The Watkins family â€" Luke, his father, mother and brother â€" currently run the farm and they plan to keep it that way. As the farm grows and the workload increases, however, they will need to bring on more help.

For the first couple of years, Insetta and Watkins only plan to experiment with seasonal row crops and varieties of heirloom vegetables. Until then, they will work with other local farms to get the produce they need.

Twinn Bridges Herb Farm in Macclenny, for example, serves Orsay as well as about 35 other restaurants with locally grown herbs and produce like lettuce, squash, melons and more.

But the real focus of the farm will be on the hogs.

Black Hog Farm raises mainly Berkshire hogs, which are less common in the commercial industry because they are a slow-growing breed.

“We like to bring the more traditional hogs back and see more in restaurants,” Watkins said. “A little more flavor and more fat.”

The hogs are surprisingly social and, Watkins says, as intelligent as dogs.

While one rolls over begging for a belly rub, Watkins says he has learned not to become attached to these adorable animals because, “they taste good, too.”

All of the hogs are born on the farm and, eventually, Watkins hopes their lives will end there as well, instead of being processed at another facility.

“It’s a better experience for the hog, and no stress of transport leads to a better product,” Watkins said.

Hogs are one of the highest yielding animals; you can use everything on a hog, including its skin. With the new property and resources available as Black Hog Farm expands, Watkins’ goal is to use more of the animal and to waste nothing.

The farm will use different techniques in raising its meat to lessen the impact on the land and improve the well-being of the animals. Some of these methods include building movable houses for the chickens and using the French-inspired tradition of letting the chickens roam under the tree cover of forested areas.

“It’s way beyond cage-free,” Insetta said. “Tons of room to roam around and be happy. It’s a very old school, clean, natural way and very sustainable.”

How farm animals are raised can certainly determine the flavor of the ultimate product and Guy Ferri, who will be the chef at Black Sheep, said the difference is obvious, even in the eggs.

“It’s just more chickeny,” Ferri said. “If you take an egg from there, as opposed to a typical store-bought egg, the yolk is bright orange and the flavor is just delicious.”

And it’s not only chefs that notice a difference. Jacksonville resident Sarah Dougherty is a loyal customer at Orsay and also receives farm-to-door delivery from Black Hog Farm. One of her favorite things on Orsay’s menu is the roasted chicken dish.

“It’s super flavorful,” Dougherty said. “To me, it’s a no-brainer. I think it does make a difference and it does taste better.”

Ferri’s cooks and even locals, like Dougherty, have had the opportunity to tour Black Hog Farm and gain a deeper appreciation of their food.

“People really care where their food is coming from and they’re always wanting to talk about it,” Ferri said. “Once chefs were regarded as rock stars; now the farmers are.”

And while Insetta might not live with his mom anymore, he still knows where his chicken is coming from. It’s just a bigger backyard.



Read more at Jacksonville.com: http://jacksonville.com/entertainment/food-and-dining/2012-03-08/story/jacksonville-restaurateur-partners-black-hog-farm#ixzz1oYCDvE77